Paul has decided to “Scupper” the inside gunnels. We cut up the 8′ oak plank to get 16′ lengths for the gunnels. We will use a “half-clothespin” splice to get the length.
With this jig, I will be able to get a consistent angle for the scarph.
I will have to cut a scarph in each end of the gunnel pieces and in the “half-clothespin” part.
Glueing up the pieces:
A few photos of the glue-up:
Clamp the pieces.
All Clamped up:
Carefully, we set the gunnel pieces aside to dry:
While the glue sets, Paul and I use a cedar strip to mark the shear line.
Other end too! A lot of “eyeballing” to get this right.
Paul uses a sharpie to mark the line.
Finished line…We mark both sides.
I rough cut the shear line.
The canoe now really looks like a canoe!
When the glue is dry, I rip the gunnels to trim the 1/2 clothespin splices:
With the gunnel pieces a consistent width and height, we cut an outer and an inner one.
Testing the width:
I end up with two outer gunnel strips, each about 7/8″ by 3/4″ and Three inner gunnel strips 1/2″ by 3/4″.
Paul and I cut one of the 1/2″ by 3/4″ into blocks and four 3′ long pieces for the bow and stern, where the inner gunnel is not scuppered.
Spreading the glue:
We cut blocks to glue to the inside of the inside gunnels:
Time to glue them up:
We are using Titebond II.
When the glue is dry, we test fit the inner gunnels into the hull before we put the epoxy and cloth in.
Paul and I dry fit the inner gunnels, cutting them to get a close fit….
We use the Shopsmith Disk sander…
We are satisfied with a “Rough” fit, the dimensions will change once we put the epoxy and cloth on the inside.
We heat up the canoe using the heat lamps. At the start, the hull is at 15 degrees.
Paul and I drape the cloth in the canoe and add resin.
We do eight cups of resin/hardener.
We reduce the heating in the garage and boatshop…trying to minimise the “off-gassing” and have the resin be drawn into the wood.
We put on the cargo tie-downs on.
We let the canoe cure overnight. Weighs 37 lbs! The next day we put on the first fill coat and glue on the inside gunnels while the resin is still “green”.
We dry fit both gunnels.
Paul fits the two gunnels.
When both gunnels fit, Paul mixes a batch of resin, and coats the gunnel blocks and then the top two inches of the East side of the hull.
We put in the East inner gunnel.
We have to clamp the gunnel at every scupper block. We aim to see a little resin “squeeze out”.
Dry fit photo of how we got the stems even with the gunnels:
A lot of clamps. Then finishing putting on the 1st fill coat.
After chasing bubbles and dry spots, it is time to walk away and let the epoxy cure:
Looks more and more like a canoe every day.
Time for tea… Might be able to get another fill coat on today, if not then tomorrow. The critical factor is insuring that the inner gunnel epoxy is cured enough so they do not come away from the hull. It would be good to have the clamps out of the way for the second coat.
Well, Tonight’s the night! The second fill coat
We take off all of the clamps.
That clamp was on a little tight!
We give the gunnels a quick sanding and vacuum the hull.
Paul and I remove all the green tape from the cargo tie-downs.
I brush resin into the scupper holes and he rolls out the hull. We both roll out resin for half an hour, trying to get an even coat. You can only do that for sooooo long.
Time for a cure.
The third fill coat went on just like the last one, but with more rolling out.