Stripping the West side of the canoe was much harder than the East side. After the first four, every strip had to be fitted, with a bevel on each end of the strip.
Strip one goes on…..
To increase the tension of the rubber-band clamps, We twin the rubber-bands where necessary.
We will have to address this issue soon, or the strips will not line up on both sides.
We try to get some “squeeze-out” of the glue between the strips.
When the strip is fitted, we glue it in
We try to put only as much glue on as we need to get some “squeeze out”.
We are only able to do one strip at a time….
….another day, another strip….
When Paul is at work, I can glue-up three strips a day, morning, afternoon & evening.
A better view with strip six fitted:
We carry on:
The “F” clamp keeps both sides of the canoe even.
We decide to try fitting two strips (8 & 9) at once. We start to run into a problem. From now on, the “F” clamps will only hold one strip at a time in alignment.
To keep the rubber-band clamps from damaging the “cove”, we use Ikea shelving pins in the cove. This keeps the clamps from breaking the edges of the “cove”.
Paul and I have to be very careful with the rubber-band clamps. If they let go they give you a nasty rap on the hands.
The straps keep the strips from buckling. This is the last time we will use a strap at mould station #3.
We hold the strip on the canoe and mark where the strip crosses the centre line. We measure the length of the matching strip bevel. We mark the strip. Then we cut.
We put a small wedge strip under the strap to hold the “clamping strip block” more tightly in place.
We aim to get glue squeeze out along the strip.
We have the routine down pat…Fit, glue, clamp, come back when dry. Fit, glue, clamp…..
If the fit between the two sides of the canoe is not “perfect” we mix up a little glue and sawdust to use as a filler. We also develop a better technique:
We run a saw blade down between the offsetting strips to even out the joint.
The next strip to be fitted is on the left. With the shorter strips, we can use one long one for both sides.
We are using “F” clamps to keep the two sides of the canoe even.
Because of the cove on the strips, we decide to fit the last three strips at once.
The big problem will be “clamping the strips together. We cannot use the rubber-band clamps when the last strip is fitted, and if the last strip is too wide when we “wedge” the strips in, it will cause the canoe to separate along the keel line.
Fortunately there is not much “twist” in the strips as we are at the flat part of the bottom.
We are using 80 grit sandpaper to start.
We use the shop dust control to keep the dust down. The shop will still need a through dusting after all the sanding.
We give the hull a rough sanding. We fill all of the cracks between the strips with a mixture of glue and sawdust. When we are done I wash the hull to remove the excess filler and raise the grain.
After the hull dries and when Paul is at work, I continue with the 1/3 sheet sander. 120, 150 & 220 Grit sandpaper.
A few pictures of the sanded hull. Where the picture looks blurry, that is wood dust I have not vacuumed up yet.